Waging a War in Som Vihar

We have lizards.  Relatively small lizards, about 5-6 inches long, have decided to become our new roommates.  They use their own entry points, normally cracks in the wall or under the doors, and have taken residents on the walls and ceiling of our apartment.

A few nights ago, I was lying awake in bed, when I started hearing some funny "spraycan noises" coming from my roommate, Anna's, bedroom.  After a few minutes, a dark figure tiptoed into mine and Shantel's room seeking assistance.  "There is a lizard on my wall!"  She had been trying to get it away by spraying it with insect repellent.  Thus our battle began.  By the end of the hour, all three of us were standing on Anna's bed armed with our weapon of choice.  Shantel had a shoebox, I had a broom, and Anna had a flashlight.  None of these items were in any way going to be helpful in catching any of the multiple lizards running about the room.  Eventually we gave up, and Anna chose to spend the night in the living room.

The next morning the battle was reinstated.  I had a tailless lizard (whom I have nicknamed "Eeyore") trapped in a corner and had big plans for shoeing him outside through our bathroom balcony.  Our housemaid, Laxmi, was hovering over my efforts, insisting that I was going about this all the wrong way.  "No!  I leave eggshells.  Then they go."  The common method for keeping lizards away is to leave eggshells and peacock feathers around the house.  Eventually she tried to join my efforts by smacking the lizard.  This was not my desired course of action.  After finally managing to encourage Eeyore to leave, we started researching lizard repellents and sprays and emailed our supervisor asking for help.  What did she suggest?  Eggshells and peacock feathers.

Due to my bravery with a broom as my weapon, I have somehow earned the title of "Official Lizard Banisher."  I'm pretty sure that I can't put that on a resume, but I suppose it still has its perks.  Perhaps we will eventually get used to the presence of the little guys.  They are completely harmless, and want nothing to do with us.   Besides, Shantel and I spotted a little lizard during our tour of the President's house the other day.  Clearly, this is normal.

Despite this,  if you visit our apartment, do not by alarmed by the broken eggshells and peacock feathers, sitting in a few key locations in every room. 

Bhoomi Pooja

I've been thinking a lot about beliefs, how they bring people together, how they drive people apart, where they come from, and why we have them.  Whether its spiritual, political, social, or personal, everyone has them for their own reasons.  Its a big question that I'll never be able to fully address because I just don't have the space.  I guess its on my mind because of all the unique cultural experiences I've had since coming to India.  In experiencing traditions that are very foreign to me, it strikes me that I've never felt like a foreigner among them.  While I don't feel as though my "beliefs" have changed since coming here, I do feel more aware of my relationship with them.  Each new experience brings me closer to them and opens my heart a little more.

Today's event was "Bhoomi Pooja" the Hindu blessing for sanctifying new land.

Maitri has recently acquired a plot of new land in Vrindavan.  This area will be used to build a brand new ashram called "Maitri Ghar" which will have the capacity to house 100 widows.  Before building can commence, the land needed to be blessed, in proper Hindu Tradition.  The ceremony was beautiful in its simplicity, and full of life.  I'd say the most striking elements were the colors, the sounds, and the smells.  It certainly made me feel closer to the widows, for whom their worship is of utmost importance.  They put it even before their food, clothing, and shelter.

Widows raise their hands in celebration and song.

Pooja Flame 

Planting the Maitri Ghar Tree

Following the Pooja, we distributed the midday meal to the widows, along with brand new sarees, which they receive twice per year.  They thanked us with all their hearts and then started swapping sarees.  It was adorable to see these tiny and dignified women, fighting over the best saree styles.  I hate to generalize, but no matter where you go, people love getting new things, and they love to look good.

Serving lunch to the widows 

The widows continue to inspire me.  When I'm with them, I'm reminded of why I'm here: to bring the world closer together by celebrating both our similarities and our differences.  Today I experienced a religious ceremony that I'd never seen before, and I felt more at home than in any similar experience in the states.  Today, it didn't matter what or where my personal "beliefs" come from, it only matters where they take me.  Today, I gave clothing to women who inspire me to have courage, hope, and joy, even when facing the darkest times.  I don't know if I'll be changing the world anytime soon, but its good to know that the world is doing what it can to change me.

There's my thought for the day.

Peace, love, namaste

Bathing in the Ganges

Varanasi.  THIS is the city that makes people fall in love with India.  One of the most legendary cities in all of India, people flock here from across the globe, to reap the benefits of the holy water of the Ganges River.  Its a cornucopia  of colors, characters, and spirituality that you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else in the world.  Wandering up the narrow hallways they call streets, the sights, sounds, and smells are simultaneously overstimulating and mellow.

The shear variety of people from all groups and backgrounds was one of the most striking characteristics of the city.  Along with the usual India crowd, (your beggars, street peddlers, cows, dogs, monkeys, and normal pedestrians) We also encountered numerous varieties of holy men, from many different sects.  Most unique are the Marijuana using Sadhus, who smear themselves in ash (traditionally human) and who have a deep spiritual connection to the dead.  We also encountered a larger percentage of "western folk" than we have in any other place in India.  Most seemed, like us, just to be there taking in the vibrant energy of the city.

The People of Varanasi

Alright, its the elephant in the room. The Ganges River.  This is the reason this place is here.  Its holiness has the qualities capable of cleansing people from their sins.  Not only is this a huge bathing spot, but its a very auspicious place for people to die.  Traditionally, the very devout, will spend their last years in the city.  Several of the Ghats along the river are designated "burning ghats."  Bodies, wrapped in brightly colored cloth, are carried though the city on bamboo stretchers.  Upon reaching the river, they are completely submerged, and then cremated on pyres of sandalwood.  It was a sight like nothing I've ever seen.

Manikarnika:  The main "Burning Ghat" from the river.

I'll leave you with my favorite "fun fact" from Varanasi.  People may come here to cleanse themselves, but the water is far from clean.  Water "safe" for bathing has 500 fecal bacteria per liter.  The Ganges river?  1.5 MILLION.  Essentially, its raw sewage.  Even so, I couldn't pass up the chance to join the men, women, children, monkeys, dogs, cadavers, and cows enjoying the healthful effect of the river.  Here's to taking the plunge and giving my feet a little protection.



 Peace, love, namaste.