"Be the change you wish to see in the world." - Mahatma Gandhi

Well, its here.  The last week of my internship with Maitri India.  Though I still have 3 weeks of traveling about India to enjoy before I return home to Salt Lake City, a chapter of my life is certainly closing with the end of my work at Maitri.  In the next few weeks Shantel and I will be finally get to experience India as tourists do by traveling from the Himalayas down to the sunny beaches of Goa.

When I walked into the Hinckley Institute of Politics last fall, I was looking for an experience that would change my life.  Looking at a year off before enrolling in a graduate program had me wondering how I could use that time to make a difference in the world.  I didn’t know what I was getting myself into. 

Working with Maitri changed me in the most unexpected ways.  I’ve been exposed to the real issues of India as well as the challenges faced by institutions working to combat them.  I have also learned to think about life from a new perspective.  Upon interacting with vulnerable populations, such as outcast widows, migrant workers, and slum children, I have learned a great deal about what is important in life.  They have opened my eyes to just how little we actually need to survive. Maya Angelou said, “we need much less than we think we need.”  Who am I to complain about the little things, when there are people living with so much less.  Whats more, the children, who have never known any life outside of the slums, continue to brighten the landscape with their smiles and laughter.  For the rest of my life, when I find myself complaining for wishing for things that I don’t have, I hope their faces will come to my mind.  

I have to say, I’m glad I have these next few weeks to prepare myself to emerge from my own self discovery safe zone before I have to face real life.  

Peace, love, namaste:)

Waging a War in Som Vihar

We have lizards.  Relatively small lizards, about 5-6 inches long, have decided to become our new roommates.  They use their own entry points, normally cracks in the wall or under the doors, and have taken residents on the walls and ceiling of our apartment.

A few nights ago, I was lying awake in bed, when I started hearing some funny "spraycan noises" coming from my roommate, Anna's, bedroom.  After a few minutes, a dark figure tiptoed into mine and Shantel's room seeking assistance.  "There is a lizard on my wall!"  She had been trying to get it away by spraying it with insect repellent.  Thus our battle began.  By the end of the hour, all three of us were standing on Anna's bed armed with our weapon of choice.  Shantel had a shoebox, I had a broom, and Anna had a flashlight.  None of these items were in any way going to be helpful in catching any of the multiple lizards running about the room.  Eventually we gave up, and Anna chose to spend the night in the living room.

The next morning the battle was reinstated.  I had a tailless lizard (whom I have nicknamed "Eeyore") trapped in a corner and had big plans for shoeing him outside through our bathroom balcony.  Our housemaid, Laxmi, was hovering over my efforts, insisting that I was going about this all the wrong way.  "No!  I leave eggshells.  Then they go."  The common method for keeping lizards away is to leave eggshells and peacock feathers around the house.  Eventually she tried to join my efforts by smacking the lizard.  This was not my desired course of action.  After finally managing to encourage Eeyore to leave, we started researching lizard repellents and sprays and emailed our supervisor asking for help.  What did she suggest?  Eggshells and peacock feathers.

Due to my bravery with a broom as my weapon, I have somehow earned the title of "Official Lizard Banisher."  I'm pretty sure that I can't put that on a resume, but I suppose it still has its perks.  Perhaps we will eventually get used to the presence of the little guys.  They are completely harmless, and want nothing to do with us.   Besides, Shantel and I spotted a little lizard during our tour of the President's house the other day.  Clearly, this is normal.

Despite this,  if you visit our apartment, do not by alarmed by the broken eggshells and peacock feathers, sitting in a few key locations in every room. 

Bhoomi Pooja

I've been thinking a lot about beliefs, how they bring people together, how they drive people apart, where they come from, and why we have them.  Whether its spiritual, political, social, or personal, everyone has them for their own reasons.  Its a big question that I'll never be able to fully address because I just don't have the space.  I guess its on my mind because of all the unique cultural experiences I've had since coming to India.  In experiencing traditions that are very foreign to me, it strikes me that I've never felt like a foreigner among them.  While I don't feel as though my "beliefs" have changed since coming here, I do feel more aware of my relationship with them.  Each new experience brings me closer to them and opens my heart a little more.

Today's event was "Bhoomi Pooja" the Hindu blessing for sanctifying new land.

Maitri has recently acquired a plot of new land in Vrindavan.  This area will be used to build a brand new ashram called "Maitri Ghar" which will have the capacity to house 100 widows.  Before building can commence, the land needed to be blessed, in proper Hindu Tradition.  The ceremony was beautiful in its simplicity, and full of life.  I'd say the most striking elements were the colors, the sounds, and the smells.  It certainly made me feel closer to the widows, for whom their worship is of utmost importance.  They put it even before their food, clothing, and shelter.

Widows raise their hands in celebration and song.

Pooja Flame 

Planting the Maitri Ghar Tree

Following the Pooja, we distributed the midday meal to the widows, along with brand new sarees, which they receive twice per year.  They thanked us with all their hearts and then started swapping sarees.  It was adorable to see these tiny and dignified women, fighting over the best saree styles.  I hate to generalize, but no matter where you go, people love getting new things, and they love to look good.

Serving lunch to the widows 

The widows continue to inspire me.  When I'm with them, I'm reminded of why I'm here: to bring the world closer together by celebrating both our similarities and our differences.  Today I experienced a religious ceremony that I'd never seen before, and I felt more at home than in any similar experience in the states.  Today, it didn't matter what or where my personal "beliefs" come from, it only matters where they take me.  Today, I gave clothing to women who inspire me to have courage, hope, and joy, even when facing the darkest times.  I don't know if I'll be changing the world anytime soon, but its good to know that the world is doing what it can to change me.

There's my thought for the day.

Peace, love, namaste

Bathing in the Ganges

Varanasi.  THIS is the city that makes people fall in love with India.  One of the most legendary cities in all of India, people flock here from across the globe, to reap the benefits of the holy water of the Ganges River.  Its a cornucopia  of colors, characters, and spirituality that you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else in the world.  Wandering up the narrow hallways they call streets, the sights, sounds, and smells are simultaneously overstimulating and mellow.

The shear variety of people from all groups and backgrounds was one of the most striking characteristics of the city.  Along with the usual India crowd, (your beggars, street peddlers, cows, dogs, monkeys, and normal pedestrians) We also encountered numerous varieties of holy men, from many different sects.  Most unique are the Marijuana using Sadhus, who smear themselves in ash (traditionally human) and who have a deep spiritual connection to the dead.  We also encountered a larger percentage of "western folk" than we have in any other place in India.  Most seemed, like us, just to be there taking in the vibrant energy of the city.

The People of Varanasi

Alright, its the elephant in the room. The Ganges River.  This is the reason this place is here.  Its holiness has the qualities capable of cleansing people from their sins.  Not only is this a huge bathing spot, but its a very auspicious place for people to die.  Traditionally, the very devout, will spend their last years in the city.  Several of the Ghats along the river are designated "burning ghats."  Bodies, wrapped in brightly colored cloth, are carried though the city on bamboo stretchers.  Upon reaching the river, they are completely submerged, and then cremated on pyres of sandalwood.  It was a sight like nothing I've ever seen.

Manikarnika:  The main "Burning Ghat" from the river.

I'll leave you with my favorite "fun fact" from Varanasi.  People may come here to cleanse themselves, but the water is far from clean.  Water "safe" for bathing has 500 fecal bacteria per liter.  The Ganges river?  1.5 MILLION.  Essentially, its raw sewage.  Even so, I couldn't pass up the chance to join the men, women, children, monkeys, dogs, cadavers, and cows enjoying the healthful effect of the river.  Here's to taking the plunge and giving my feet a little protection.



 Peace, love, namaste. 

"The Pink City"

This weekend, we embarked on our first train journey in India, to the city of Jaipur.  Jaipur is the largest city in the state of Rajasthan and is famous for its forts, arts, crafts, and elephants.  I think the best way to describe our experience here is "unexpected."  NOTHING worked out the way we planned, but thats sort of how it goes in India. We've accepted it and we have no real regrets.  We had a great few days, full of sightseeing, shopping, henna, Rajasthani cuisine, getting scammed by everyone we met, and getting to know our very talkative (and totally annoying) driver named Haan.

What I feel most inclined to talk about though, is not our travel experience.  Its the elephants.  For those of you who don't know, I am a very big fan of elephants.  They are fascinating creatures who truly have lasting memories and a human-like sense of compassion and friendship.  In both Buddhism and Hinduism, they represent mental strength and stability, for me, they represent the importance of relationships.  Besides this, they are simply gorgeous animals.  You can imagine how excited I was to visit a place that has a town called "Elephant Village."   Coming face to face with an Elephant named Jambu, at Amber Fort, was one of the single greatest experiences of my young life.  However, I have to say that mostly the elephants of Jaipur tugged at my heartstrings and made the animal rights activist in me come bubbling right to the surface.   

Elephants are one of the main attractions in Jaipur.  They famously carry people (now tourists) up the steep climb to Amber Fort.  We had planned on doing doing an interactive elephant experience, but decided against it last minute (at the advice or our hotel manager) and I am so glad we did.  Though the elephants are a beautiful sight, all painted and decorated in traditional Rajasthani garb, I am so glad we didn't put our money towards anyone who profits off of these majestic creatures.  They are overworked, and kept in absolutely terrible conditions.  Our driver thought he was going to make us very happy by taking us to an elephant barn.  He said, "you said you love elephants, here you can see them, and take their pictures.  There is a baby."  Yes, there were six elephants living in that tiny barn, including one baby.  They had chains around their ankles and were living in the dark in piles of their own feces.  After seeing how they live, I lost all desire to ride an elephant while in India.  Thats just not what they are for.

All in all, Jaipur was very interesting and unique, but it actually somehow managed to make Delhi feel calm and civilized.  A higher percentage of tourists makes people even more prone to haggling, and I really felt like a target.  Its all part of the experience though, and the two of us came home with some very special and one of a kind souvenirs.  Its amazing how far the American dollar can go in a country like India.

We had a wonderful experience on both our train rides.  We made so many friends and connections.  In India, people are much friendlier than in the United States.  By this I mean, if you are in a compartment with someone on the train, you won't sit in silence.  You will get their life story, learn about there families, jobs, and views on life.  You will share food and they will give you their contact information.  Everyone we meet wants to have us for dinner and put us up in their homes.  Basically its a very hospitable culture and in great contrast to Utah, where everyone ignores each other.  

As our driver, Haan said, "life is short, but the world is small." We are just gathering so many weird quotes.... Peace, Love, Namaste.

Amber Fort

  

"There is no snow at the Taj Mahal"

Thursday night, on our way to a wedding celebration, with 5 unseatbelted girls crammed into a taxi, racing a horse and buggy down a crowded New Delhi street, Shantel made a keen observation:  "Annie, when did this start to feel normal?  We are going to have such bad culture shock when we we go home to Salt Lake."  She couldn't have been more right.  When we first got to Delhi, the traffic was just about the scariest thing we had to face.  Now, its scary how little we think about it. I guess all I have to say is, we have officially grown accustomed to the hectic, loud, and originally disconcerting energy of the city.  Welcome to New Delhi life to us. 

I probably should say something about attending an Indian wedding.  Our lovely coworker Anita was kind enough to extend us an invitation to her brother's wedding.  It was a wonderful excuse to experience something completely Indian and best of all, getting all dolled up for a night out.  Though we only attended the reception and didn't experience the full 3 day long event, I feel thrilled to have had the opportunity to see what it was all about.  I have to say that what I love most about India, so far, are the people and the colors.  Nothing is done half way.  They just love an excuse for a celebration.  There hasn't been a night yet when I haven't heard fireworks and drums outside my window.  

 

All in all, the more I get to know and understand the culture, the more I grow to love it here.  Plus, the clothes are so comfortable that I could probably be happy in them for the rest of my life. 

 This blog post can't come without a mention of our recent visit to the most well known landmark of India:  The Taj Mahal.  Yes we finally made the 3 1/2 hour journey to the city of Agra, a truly unremarkable place with one very beautiful building.  Honestly, a part of me expected to be underwhelmed by the Taj Mahal.  I thought, its probably not going to live up to expectations or all the hype.  Fortunately, I couldn't have been more wrong.  The Taj is magnificent in every way: enormous, flawless architecture, hand carved, and even whiter than it ever appears in photos. 

Roomies!  Annie, Anna, and Shantel

This yogi just couldn't help herself:  "Fallen Angel" at the Taj Mahal

Shah Jahan had this masterpiece built for his favorite wife, his Mumtaz Mahal (the jewel of the palace.)  She requested that he build her a monument so beautiful that the world would never forget their love.  I guess he must have succeeded because people come from all over the world to see their tomb.  Few, if any graves are visited as much.  Its amazing to think that 20,000 laborers, slaved away for over 17 years to create this tomb.  Legend has it that he planned to build his own black mausoleum across the river.  He was, however, imprisoned by his own son, spending the final years of his life gazing at his beautiful Taj Mahal from across the city.  This building is one of the great pieces of Mughal architecture and I probably saw it for the one and only time in my life.  

After saying our goodbyes, we were transported back to "real India."  I've never been harassed by so many hagglers in my entire time here.  Drivers trying to take me to my next destination by rickshaw, horse, or camel.  People selling everything from jewelry, to information, to Taj Mahal snow globes.  I doubt it will ever snow at the Taj Mahal, but if it did, it would be a glorious sight.

I hope you aren't all too cold back home!  Peace, Love, Namaste:) 

First World Problems

I’ve been struck with an experience sharing conundrum.  Last week, I posted some photos on facebook of some of the sights that I had visited around Delhi.  I’m talking about the tourist sights: Safdarjung’s Tomb, Lodi Gardens, and the Qutb Minar.  They are beautiful pieces of architecture and, as a tourist, I really wanted to share the photos with my friends and family.  In posting, I reached a dilemma.  In no way, do these photos represent my actual experience in India.

So what is the “real India.”  Its certainly not just gorgeous palaces and tombs, surrounded by Sikh men on camels the way the travel books might lead you to believe.  On the other hand, its not just one giant garbage heap either.  Delhi can go from posh to slum without even crossing the street.  

This is very representative about the ultimate paradox that India represents on every level.  One minute, I’m reveling in the beauty of an historical monument,and the next minute, I’m giving snacks to a three-year-old begging for money in the middle of a busy intersection.  Its a roller coaster of emotions that my tourist photos can’t begin to represent.  Living here has already been one of the biggest challenges my mind and body have had to undergo.  

There is nothing like spending time in a slum to make you extremely grateful, or possibly even a little ashamed, of the comforts you have back home.  I have visited the slum in Karol Bagh, Delhi for several health camps with Maitri.  Today was a mega health camp that included HIV testing, distribution of medications, and enrollment for voter ID cards and universal ID cards.  Maitri also works hard to make sure migrant workers and the homeless have access to their own bank accounts.  There was a huge turnout and it was amazing to see people receiving these benefits first hand.  

I am constantly struck by a few qualities that turn up in people who live in these conditions.  The first is hospitality.  On each visit to the slum, I have been offered beverages and tea by people who can't afford to adequately feed themselves.  They also show pride.  They are not ashamed of the conditions in which they choose to live.  In fact they are excited to share it with us and show us their homes.  Finally, I'm struck by the children.  Kids will be kids wherever you go.  They always know how to have fun and bring life to the party.  They were mesmerized by our appearance.  One little girl couldn't stop touching our hair.  She said she could have hair like ours if she "painted" it.  They asked us where we came from and if we flew on a plane.  Compared to American kids, they seemed to have more curiosity and energy for everything around them.  While dealing with hunger and unsanitary living conditions leading to a whole host of medical problems, its striking how little they complain.  I have a feeling that the phrase "first world problems" will take on a whole new meaning when I come home.   

Peace, Love, Namaste:)