Bathing in the Ganges

Varanasi.  THIS is the city that makes people fall in love with India.  One of the most legendary cities in all of India, people flock here from across the globe, to reap the benefits of the holy water of the Ganges River.  Its a cornucopia  of colors, characters, and spirituality that you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else in the world.  Wandering up the narrow hallways they call streets, the sights, sounds, and smells are simultaneously overstimulating and mellow.

The shear variety of people from all groups and backgrounds was one of the most striking characteristics of the city.  Along with the usual India crowd, (your beggars, street peddlers, cows, dogs, monkeys, and normal pedestrians) We also encountered numerous varieties of holy men, from many different sects.  Most unique are the Marijuana using Sadhus, who smear themselves in ash (traditionally human) and who have a deep spiritual connection to the dead.  We also encountered a larger percentage of "western folk" than we have in any other place in India.  Most seemed, like us, just to be there taking in the vibrant energy of the city.

The People of Varanasi

Alright, its the elephant in the room. The Ganges River.  This is the reason this place is here.  Its holiness has the qualities capable of cleansing people from their sins.  Not only is this a huge bathing spot, but its a very auspicious place for people to die.  Traditionally, the very devout, will spend their last years in the city.  Several of the Ghats along the river are designated "burning ghats."  Bodies, wrapped in brightly colored cloth, are carried though the city on bamboo stretchers.  Upon reaching the river, they are completely submerged, and then cremated on pyres of sandalwood.  It was a sight like nothing I've ever seen.

Manikarnika:  The main "Burning Ghat" from the river.

I'll leave you with my favorite "fun fact" from Varanasi.  People may come here to cleanse themselves, but the water is far from clean.  Water "safe" for bathing has 500 fecal bacteria per liter.  The Ganges river?  1.5 MILLION.  Essentially, its raw sewage.  Even so, I couldn't pass up the chance to join the men, women, children, monkeys, dogs, cadavers, and cows enjoying the healthful effect of the river.  Here's to taking the plunge and giving my feet a little protection.



 Peace, love, namaste.